Mending market linkages to restore the grandeur of traditional Indian textiles

Abstract

With the recent economic development in India and e-commerce rush, the country has found new patrons of crafts in the elite Indian craft consumer. Not only e-commerce, but several brands like Taneira by Tata, Aadhyam by Aditya Birla and Swadesh by Reliance are the new national brands selling handloom sarees. Such an unprecedented interests in crafts, which is being touted as the Indian luxury, augurs well for revival of traditional crafts. But problems faced by the marketers are considerable. The study initially draws a narrative on Indian crafts right from ancient times and shows how the narrative has changed over time, in the process affecting the stature of the rich cultural heritage. The aim of the study is to examine the supply side linkages that play a role in enriching traditional textiles from the marketer’s perspective. As the variables to be studied were not very clear in the beginning, we follow a qualitative methodology. In-depth interviews were conducted with representatives of government sector, private sector, non-government organisations. Focus group discussions with primary producers like weavers and artisans associated with traditional textile crafts of Gujarat were conducted. A Grounded theory approach was followed in order to develop a conceptual framework of the supply side challenges faced by the marketers of traditional textile crafts of the Gujarat region. The qualitative inquiry shows that there are three major themes viz. Information Asymmetry, Supply Chain Systems and Product design that need to be addressed in order to
address supply side challenges and externalities of the sector. Organisational/governmental budgetary allocations that aim at improvement in relevant matrices will help the restoration of the stature of traditional textile crafts. Contrary to popular belief that demand of traditional textiles is declining, we found that many constraints faced by the craftsmen and handloom weavers were unrelated to demand. The externalities of this sector have made the compromise between heritage and business a difficult one, unless the supply side linkages are strengthened. One can hope that craft may finally opt out of the preservation rhetoric for the best way to preserve something is to make it prosper. The study findings are unique as they provide a multidimensional narrative on marketing of the tangible cultural heritage of India.